We said our goodbyes to the Gibson family and Mark dropped us at the airport at 11pm. We’d heard lots of stories about Afriqiyah Airways delays so we were prepared for such eventualities. However, we were fortunate enough to be heading up the motorway from Gatwick airport at 11am the next day. A bit tired, but we arrived at right airport, on time and with all our luggage – and you can’t ask for more than that.
This was actually quite representative of our entire trip. We were told that travelling in Africa “will not go according to plan”. Prior to leaving, we’d drawn up a couple of possible itineraries, mainly dependent on when the train left Dakar. Looking back, we visited all the places we intended to visit and more-or-less at the time that we intended to visit them. So all that guidebook-reading and internet-surfing was worth it, and it is possible to plan an Africa trip and achieve it.
Now we’re back in Rugby and getting back into the swing of things here. People to see, e-mails to answer, photos to sort out, houses to sell (we hope) and, of course, the next holiday to plan! What will our next blog be called?
Thursday, February 7, 2008
24 hours in Ouagadougou
On Friday afternoon, 7 of us (and all our luggage) squeezed into the Gibson’s car - though compared to African standards we were not squeezed at all. We had a good journey down to Ouaga and to our delight part of the road is now tarred – bliss! Though the un-tarred part is still quite rough.
We had a fantastic evening meal at one of the best restaurants in Burkina Faso. Samuel was left with babysitters! That left the rest of us to pretend that we really were as sophisticated as the restaurant – which was a bit difficult in clothes that had done a lot of travelling in the previous 5 weeks. Joshua and Amelia declared the place to be “perfect” and the “best restaurant we’ve ever been to”. For us, it was the 2nd best restaurant - after Vermillion (our wedding reception venue!)
On Saturday we did the obligatory stop in one of the Arts & Crafts centres to buy some souvenirs – why do they have to be so hassle-y? I’m sure that we’d spend more money if they just let us browse. Then we had a quick look around the Cathedral, which was very calm once a rather lively wedding party had left. Finally it was off to the biggest supermarket in town for the Gibson’s to stock up on some essentials that the people of Djibo don’t find quite so essential. Then, so that Samuel didn’t feel left out (well that was Cheryl’s excuse), we went out to another restaurant, this time for ice creams – delicious.
We had a fantastic evening meal at one of the best restaurants in Burkina Faso. Samuel was left with babysitters! That left the rest of us to pretend that we really were as sophisticated as the restaurant – which was a bit difficult in clothes that had done a lot of travelling in the previous 5 weeks. Joshua and Amelia declared the place to be “perfect” and the “best restaurant we’ve ever been to”. For us, it was the 2nd best restaurant - after Vermillion (our wedding reception venue!)
On Saturday we did the obligatory stop in one of the Arts & Crafts centres to buy some souvenirs – why do they have to be so hassle-y? I’m sure that we’d spend more money if they just let us browse. Then we had a quick look around the Cathedral, which was very calm once a rather lively wedding party had left. Finally it was off to the biggest supermarket in town for the Gibson’s to stock up on some essentials that the people of Djibo don’t find quite so essential. Then, so that Samuel didn’t feel left out (well that was Cheryl’s excuse), we went out to another restaurant, this time for ice creams – delicious.
Friday, February 1, 2008
Chez Gibson
We arrived in Djibo last Tuesday evening by bus (and on time!). For the last 9 days we have been enjoying the hospitality of the Gibsons, as well as the other missionaries in town and some of their Fulani friends. We've ....
- been to the cattle market and the town market - only actually shopped in one of them!
- worshipped at the Fulani church and met the pastor and his wife.
- visited a Fulani family in Winde Ferru village and ate chobbal, a millet soup.
- socialised with the Pilkinton's, Davies', and Elliott's.
- played with Joshua, Amelia and Samuel (every day!)
- chatted with Mark and Cheryl.
- drank tea with milk.
Today, we left Djibo after lunch to head down to Ouagadougou for good internet access and our flight home.
Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Into Burkina...
Yesterday we left Dogon country to head into Burkina Faso. Our aim was to get to the Gibson's in Djibo. The guidebooks suggested that it may be possible to do it all in one day, but unlikely!
We left Kani Komboli at 8.30am by horse and cart. This took us the 10km to Bankass, a small town on the main road. We waited there for a bush-taxi, and waited! There were others waiting as well, and some really friendly locals who spoke good English, but that doesn't make the taxi's come any quicker. After 3 hours the friendly locals organised a lift for us in a very comfortable 4wd, which turned out to be carrying Mali's Minister of Tourism!
They dropped us in Koro where we needed to get a bus to Ouahigouya. More waiting, but this time just 2 hours. But the bus was very rickety with a very shattered windscreen and very dim lights, which gave out completely just 5 minutes from our destination. We arrived at 7.15pm, just a bit too late to get the bus to Djibo. So we went to a local hotel for a welcome shower and rest.
We left Kani Komboli at 8.30am by horse and cart. This took us the 10km to Bankass, a small town on the main road. We waited there for a bush-taxi, and waited! There were others waiting as well, and some really friendly locals who spoke good English, but that doesn't make the taxi's come any quicker. After 3 hours the friendly locals organised a lift for us in a very comfortable 4wd, which turned out to be carrying Mali's Minister of Tourism!
They dropped us in Koro where we needed to get a bus to Ouahigouya. More waiting, but this time just 2 hours. But the bus was very rickety with a very shattered windscreen and very dim lights, which gave out completely just 5 minutes from our destination. We arrived at 7.15pm, just a bit too late to get the bus to Djibo. So we went to a local hotel for a welcome shower and rest.
Le Pays Dogon
We have spent 6 days and 5 nights in Dogon country - Mali's other major tourist attraction.
Dogon country is centred on a long range of cliffs called the Bandiagara Escarpment, that runs for around 100 km across eastern Mali. It is stunningly beautiful in a generally arid countryside, and at times it felt like we were were walking in the Yorkshire Dales or Snowdonia (except somewhat hotter and no chance of rain!).
We walked from Sanga in the middle of the escarpment down to Kani Komboli which is towards the bottom end. About 45km in total, but it was mostly easy walking and we got used to a long rest period and siesta in the middle of the day!
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Laid back Djenne
Today we managed to get ourselves to Djenne and back. Djenne has the largest mud building in the world and is a world heritage site. After shrugging off the potential guides we had a great time wandering round the narrow alleys and admiring the many attractive mud buildings.
Tomorrow we head off to Dogon country for six days. We'll be doing a lot of walking, though as well as organising a guide we have arranged porters for our bags.
Tomorrow we head off to Dogon country for six days. We'll be doing a lot of walking, though as well as organising a guide we have arranged porters for our bags.
Bustling Mopti
The final aspect of our tour was a guided walk around Mopti - the commercial hub of central Mali. It is located on the banks of the River Bani, a tributary of the Niger.
It's a really bustling town, with loads going on in the port and the various markets. It is a place for trading fresh and dried fish, and we also visited the "shipyard" where the pinasses that travel up and down the river are built. The pinasse builders still use mostly traditional methods, and along side the boat builders, were men making nails and the other hardware needed.
We took a minibus back towards our hotel - 22 people crammed into a space that would hold 10 in the UK! It's called getting close to the locals....
It's a really bustling town, with loads going on in the port and the various markets. It is a place for trading fresh and dried fish, and we also visited the "shipyard" where the pinasses that travel up and down the river are built. The pinasse builders still use mostly traditional methods, and along side the boat builders, were men making nails and the other hardware needed.
We took a minibus back towards our hotel - 22 people crammed into a space that would hold 10 in the UK! It's called getting close to the locals....
Monday, January 14, 2008
There and back
We made it to Timbuktu and back again, and it really is a long way! After a short drive from Sevare to Mopti, we left Mopti in the pinasse at 3pm on Monday and cruised for 3 hours before stopping for the night. On Tuesday, we cruised all day from 7am until 7pm with a couple of short stops at riverside villages. On Wednesday, we started at 6.30am and continued until 9pm! Then we did the final half an hour to Timbuktu on the Thursday morning.
It was great to watch life happening on the edge of the River Niger. Though we also passed time by reading and snoozing. It was also quite cold out on the water, and we weren't really prepared for it.
After a morning exploring Timbuktu it was off to the Festival au Desert, which was a bone shaking 3 hours away. Though 70km driving through the sand dunes was a much bigger thrill than 10 minutes on the off road Land Rover circuit at Gaydon!
The Festival was interesting. We did a lot of "people watching" and it was great to observe Malien life. However, it took us a while to get into the groove of the music.
Our journey back to Sevare was all in one day in a 4x4 vehicle. We left the festival site about 8am and arrived at our guest house at midnight having covered over 400km, only 145km on a paved road.
We may have been totally tired and ready to collapse in bed, but after 6 nights without a bathroom we had to have showers before crashing!
We couldn't say that it was a totally enjoyable trip, but then getting to Timbuktu is supposed to be a challenge and an adventure.
It was great to watch life happening on the edge of the River Niger. Though we also passed time by reading and snoozing. It was also quite cold out on the water, and we weren't really prepared for it.
After a morning exploring Timbuktu it was off to the Festival au Desert, which was a bone shaking 3 hours away. Though 70km driving through the sand dunes was a much bigger thrill than 10 minutes on the off road Land Rover circuit at Gaydon!
The Festival was interesting. We did a lot of "people watching" and it was great to observe Malien life. However, it took us a while to get into the groove of the music.
Our journey back to Sevare was all in one day in a 4x4 vehicle. We left the festival site about 8am and arrived at our guest house at midnight having covered over 400km, only 145km on a paved road.
We may have been totally tired and ready to collapse in bed, but after 6 nights without a bathroom we had to have showers before crashing!
We couldn't say that it was a totally enjoyable trip, but then getting to Timbuktu is supposed to be a challenge and an adventure.
Monday, January 7, 2008
Half way to Timbuktu
Yesterday we took a bus from Bamako to Sevare. It took 9 hours. But it was not dissimilar in quality to a National Express coach so it was actually quite a comfortable journey. Sevare is about half way between Bamako and Timbuktu, as far as distance is concerned. But as we go from here to Timbuktu by pinasse ( a big canoe) it's going to take a bit longer than 9 hours!
Today, we join up with our 7 day tour so will now have to conform to the timetable of our tour guide! So we may not get to another internet cafe for a while.
Today, we join up with our 7 day tour so will now have to conform to the timetable of our tour guide! So we may not get to another internet cafe for a while.
Saturday, January 5, 2008
Bustling Bamako
Bamako is a bustling city. Our arrival coincided with Friday prayers so the mosque was at full volume. Our hotel is next to the mosque!
The streets are full of stalls selling all types of goods, so it took quite a while to find a bar of soap among all the bags, pots and bikes. But you'll be pleased to know that we eventually did.
We took a walk to get our bearings and to get our first sight of the River Niger - it's wide!
We're off to see Bamako's sights today - yes, it's possible to see them all in a day! Tomorrow we will catch a bus to Mopti, which is 8 hours from Bamako but still another 12 hours from Timbuktu. Mali is big.
The streets are full of stalls selling all types of goods, so it took quite a while to find a bar of soap among all the bags, pots and bikes. But you'll be pleased to know that we eventually did.
We took a walk to get our bearings and to get our first sight of the River Niger - it's wide!
We're off to see Bamako's sights today - yes, it's possible to see them all in a day! Tomorrow we will catch a bus to Mopti, which is 8 hours from Bamako but still another 12 hours from Timbuktu. Mali is big.
48 hours later.....
It all started by taking a taxi from our hotel in Dakar to the train station. This station was not the one in the centre of town where we bought the tickets, but was a few km up the line. Our taxi driver dropped us by a level crossing and told us to walk up the track and wait there! Thankfully there was the shade of a big tree to wait under. When fellow passengers started turning up (we were very early...) we knew we were in the right place.
The train turned up about an hour after its scheduled departure time, and departed about 30 minutes later when the world and his goat had finally boarded. We were in 1st class - so thankfully no goats there, but the general concensus of our fellow international travellers was that it was the grimiest, most decrepit train that any of us had ever encountered!
We passed the time chatting to our fellow travellers, watching Africa go by (Mali was much more interesting than Senegal), and venturing to the 'dining' car. The food was ok, but getting from one carriage to the next was a bit hair raising!
Just over 48 hours later, we arrived in Bamako (the capital of Mali); glad to be here, but REALLY looking forward to a shower and clean clothes.....
The train turned up about an hour after its scheduled departure time, and departed about 30 minutes later when the world and his goat had finally boarded. We were in 1st class - so thankfully no goats there, but the general concensus of our fellow international travellers was that it was the grimiest, most decrepit train that any of us had ever encountered!
We passed the time chatting to our fellow travellers, watching Africa go by (Mali was much more interesting than Senegal), and venturing to the 'dining' car. The food was ok, but getting from one carriage to the next was a bit hair raising!
Just over 48 hours later, we arrived in Bamako (the capital of Mali); glad to be here, but REALLY looking forward to a shower and clean clothes.....